The Wonders of Seafood in Croatia
It’s not just Croatia’s stunning scenery that takes your breath away. The sheer range of seafood available, coupled with the country’s multicultural heritage, means you’re guaranteed outstanding meals whether you’re loafing on Hvar island or enjoying the nightlife of Dubrovnik. That said, there are some places you should definitely visit if you want to try some truly exceptional seafood dishes.
Croatian seafoood cuisine is firmly Mediterranean, and most diners will recognise dishes from Italy, Greece and, of course, Turkey: Ottoman influence is strong here, as elsewhere in the Balkans. (There’s a second strand of Croatian cooking, the inland style, which, thanks to ample quantities of pork, veal and pastries, nestles seamlessly into central Europe.)
Yet, if you’re headed to Croatia this summer, the coast is the way to go. One seafood experience no one should miss is picking your own fish from a selection, and having it grilled to order. Served with fresh bread and a simple salad, it’s outstanding: look for bass, bream or even the surprisingly tasty scorpion fish.
Shellfish isn’t neglected, either. You’ll find Turkish-style stuffed mussels on a range of menus, not to mention crab. The bay of Mali Ston, studded with timber posts where oysters flourish, is just an hour from Dubrovnik, meaning oysters all along the coast are served great and fresh. (The Pelješac peninsula is also famous for wine, meaning you can combine fresh oysters with a fine local wine.)
Nor, too, are the humble cephalopods. That Mediterranean classic, octopus salad, features highly on menus, as does squid, generally served grilled rather than battered. For bargain hunters, look for squid-ink risotto, or a plate of girice, little fish served battered, like whitebait.
Of course, even before it stood in for Kings Landing on Game of Thrones, Dubrovnik had high-end restaurants aplenty. Dalmatino serves outstanding seafood-led cuisine in a quiet side-street. Or, for value, head to Lokanda Peškarija, right next door to the fish market, with outstanding views of the old harbour.
Words: Christina Garcia
Images: Turkish Stuffed Mussels by Theodora Sutcliffe; Dubrovnik_5 by Mario Fajt.