Ten Great Places to Eat Indonesian Food on Bali
It’s possible to spend an entire holiday on Bali without so much as touching Indonesian food—and, hell, in Kuta and Nusa Dua, plenty of visitors do. But the diverse cuisines of the archipelago’s 18,000-or-so islands really repay discovery, and whether you love street eats or prefer fine dining, Bali has bags to offer. Here are ten great places – four for the budget traveller, six on the more spendy end – to eat Indonesian on the island of the gods.
Ubud
Locavore
Book weeks ahead for this degustation-only eatery, recognised as Indonesia’s finest in the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah use overwhelmingly Indonesian ingredients to create painterly, cerebral dishes that reinterpret the dishes and flavours of the archipelago, be that the ducks that frequent the rice paddies or the coffee that grows in the highlands.
Nusantara
Also from the Locavore family, Nusantara delivers an ever-changing menu of favourites from across the archipelago, fuelled by regular research trips that take the team as far afield as Papua or Sumatra. Informal and relatively affordable, it’s a fascinating journey into Indonesian cuisine, from the Arab and Indian influences of Padang cuisine through to the forest flavours of Papua, from Balinese pork to Javanese sweet pickles. An Ubud must.
Seminyak
Merah-Putih
In the heart of Seminyak, Merah-Putih delivers Indonesian-influenced dishes served family style – for sharing – amid a dramatic triple-height room with towering rain columns and soaring palms. Whether it’s a fish curry from Aceh in Sumatra or octopus from the Moluccas, presentation is beautiful but dishes stay close to their origins.
merahputihbali.com/restaurant.html
Sangsaka
An intimate, 40-seater eatery from the team behind Merah-Putih, Sangsaka focused on the signature techniques of the Indonesian archipelago – smoking and grilling – long before that became fashionable. The weekly changing menu is always inventive and majors on local ingredients served uber-fresh.
Kaum
One of a mini-chain by Indonesia’s homegrown Potato Head group, this casual but stylish eatery sits above the Potato Head Beach Club with views over Seminyak beach. Tasting menus are the way to go here, with dishes showcasing the different flavours of the archipelago, from Javanese goat satay through to Bali’s signature duck. Wines and cocktails, shared with the club downstairs, are particularly good.
Bambu
Set behind a discreet spirit wall in the heart of Seminyak, Bambu is a real oasis, a contemporary reimagining of the water palaces Bali’s kings adored. And the food – polished takes on Indonesian dishes, available with low, normal or high spicing levels – is always on point. Don’t miss the Indonesian answer to ceviche, ikan gohu from the islands of North Maluku.
No website: 198 Jalan Petitenget, +623618469797
Denpasar
Candra
If you’re looking for an authentic babi guling, Bali’s signature roast sucking pig dish, this family-owned eatery in downtown Denpasar makes a great choice. Piglets are roasted en masse out the back, and dishes come served with all the trimmings, from sour turmeric and banana leaf soup to cassava stuffing, sambal, and a wealth of offal options. Swing by early in the day for a more authentic experience.
No website: 140 Jalan Teuku Umar, +6287865482438
Sanur
Warung Bambu Lulu Sop Kepala Ikan
Whether you’re staying in the area, or just passing through en route to Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan, or the Gilis, Sanur’s signature hot and sour fish head soup is an absolute must, and Bambu Lulu makes an excellent alternative to the ever-busy Mak Beng. The fish heads in question come with plenty of delicious flesh, while the broth is to die for.
No website: Jalan Suka Merta, Sanur, +6285237317777
Natrabu Minang Restaurant
If Indonesia has a national cuisine, it’s Padang, the spicy, curry-centric tradition from Sumatra that you’ll find in every town of any size across the archipelago. (And, yes, that’s the one that brought you beef rendang. One of the best options on Bali is Natrabu, in Sanur. While priced slightly higher than other Padang joints, it really won’t break the bank.
No website: 163 Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai, +62361286824
Bukit Peninsula
Lucky Fish
One of Indonesia’s signature dishes is ikan bakar (grilled fish). And there’s no better place to enjoy it than on the beach at sunset. Skip the tourist buses that head to Jimbaran Bay, and opt for Bingin Beach, at the base of a cliff in Pecatu. Pick fish, shrimp, and sometimes other seafood from the rich selection in the plastic boxes, then scoff them with rice and sambal on plastic chairs. It’s worth the effort on the stairs.
No website: Bingin Beach